Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

Private: Indian Textile Sector’s response to EU’s ESG Goals

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: NA

Mains level: India's Textile Sector

Context  

  • In recent years, there has been a global shift towards sustainability, particularly in the textile and apparel industry, driven by environmental concerns and consumer awareness.
  • The European Union (EU) is at the forefront of implementing environmental, social, and governance (ESG) goals, significantly impacting global trade and production practices.

India’s Textile Sector and Sustainability Efforts

  • Renewable Energy Adoption: Tamil Nadu’s textile and apparel sector contributes over 50% of the state’s renewable energy capacity.
  • Effluent Treatment in Tiruppur: Around 300 textile processing units in Tiruppur are connected to zero-liquid discharge effluent treatment plants.
  • Recycling Practices: Panipat’s open-end spinners use recycled fiber exclusively, and India recycles almost 90% of its used PET bottles into fiber.

Impact of EU’s Environmental Policies

  • EU’s ESG Goals and Green Deal: The European Union’s impending environmental, social, and governance (ESG) goals and the European Green Deal, effective from 2026, are prompting global brands to demand sustainable production.
  • Concerns for Indian MSMEs: India’s textile sector, dominated by Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (MSMEs), is apprehensive about the impact of EU’s Carbon Border Adjustment Mechanism (CBAM) and compliance with ESG standards.

Industry’s Response to ESG Demands

  • ‘Do or Die’ Situation: ESG demands are a critical disruptor, urging investment in sustainability for leveraging potential EU free-trade agreements.
  • Showcasing Sustainable Practices: Major garment exporters are releasing sustainability reports, and clusters like Tiruppur are highlighting their green initiatives.

Challenges and Opportunities in Compliance

  • Export Dependency on EU: A significant portion of India’s cotton textiles and apparel exports are to the EU, necessitating compliance with ESG norms.
  • Textile Ministry’s Supportive Measures: The Ministry of Textiles has formed an ESG task force and is considering interventions to support the industry.
  • Financial Assistance for Green Projects: Financial institutions are offering funding for sustainable projects, particularly for MSMEs.

Hurdles in Meeting ESG Mandates

  • Compliance Costs and Margins: Complying with ESG norms and documentation incurs additional costs, impacting the profit margins of MSMEs.
  • Diverse European Codes: Individual European countries are introducing their own sustainability codes, adding to the complexity.
  • Labor and Material Challenges: Variations in labor issues and the use of recycled fibers present additional challenges for the industry.

Global Buyers’ Stance and Domestic Market Dynamics

  • Buyers’ Inconsistent Support: While global buyers are insisting on ESG compliance, they are not uniformly supportive of the associated cost increases.
  • Domestic Retailers’ Role: Domestic retailers are not marketing recycled or sustainable products effectively, missing out on premium pricing opportunities.

Future Trends and Industry Concerns

  • Reduced Fashion Seasons: With a focus on circularity and reuse, the number of fashion seasons is expected to decrease.
  • Linking ESG to Trade Negotiations: There is apprehension that ESG norms could become trade barriers if linked to trade policies.

Conclusion

  • Balancing Sustainability and Trade: The Indian textile sector is at a pivotal point, needing to balance sustainable practices with trade competitiveness.
  • Commitment to ESG Norms: A concerted effort from the government, industry bodies, and exporters is required to meet global ESG demands while maintaining the sector’s global standing.

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

India’s Textile Crisis amid Rising MMF Fabric Imports

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: NA

Mains level: India's textile sector

Central Idea

  • Major textile hubs in India, including Ludhiana, Surat, and Erode, are grappling with the surge in imports of man-made fibre (MMF) fabrics, impacting a sector worth about $60 billion.
  • Fabric processors and weavers across these hubs express concerns over the influx of cheaper imports, primarily from China, affecting their businesses.

Impact of Imported MMF Fabrics

  • Market Dominance: Imported fabrics, especially from China, are increasingly found in Indian markets, leading to unsold stocks and production cuts by local weavers.
  • Price Disparity: Indian weavers face competition from cheaper imported yarns, compelling them to import materials like viscose yarn from China to remain competitive.

Statistical Overview of MMF Fabric Imports

  • Doubling of Imports: In the last three years, MMF fabric imports have doubled, with a significant portion being knitted synthetic fabrics.
  • Import Data: Daily imports from China increased from 325 tonnes in 2019-2020 to 887 tonnes in the April-June quarter of the current fiscal year, with a notable drop in average value per kg.

Under-Invoicing and Quality Control Issues

  • Under-Invoicing Concerns: The practice of under-invoicing imported finished fabrics poses a major challenge, leading to calls for stricter customs regulations.
  • Quality Control Orders (QCOs): The government’s introduction of QCOs on MMF fibres and products, requiring BIS certification, has impacted the entire value chain.

Consequences for Local Industry and Global Trade

  • Operational Capacity: The downstream industry is reportedly operating at only 70% capacity due to these challenges.
  • Export Decline: Exports of man-made yarn, fabrics, and made-ups have seen a year-on-year decline.
  • Global MMF Trade: India’s share in global MMF trade was 2.7% in 2019, with fabrics and yarn being major export components.

Industry Perspectives and Government Policies

  • Innovation Gap: Industry experts highlight a lack of innovation in MMF products in India compared to countries like China, Thailand, and Korea.
  • Impact of QCOs: The introduction of QCOs, particularly at the fibre stage, is criticized for disrupting the industry, with calls for implementing quality controls at the garment stage instead.
  • Challenges for MSMEs: Small and medium enterprises face financial strain due to declining orders, high prices, and increased operational costs.
  • GST Issues and Financial Relief Demands
    • GST Refund Delays: The introduction of GST led to higher taxes on MMF fibre and yarn, with delayed refunds causing financial burdens for weavers.
    • Refund Controversy: Weavers contend that they are owed significant refunds due to the inverted duty structure, with the government potentially owing around ₹1,000 crore to the sector.

Conclusion

  • Need for Strategic Measures: Addressing the challenges in India’s textile industry requires a balanced approach, considering both domestic capabilities and global market dynamics.
  • Government’s Role: Effective policy measures, including rationalizing import duties and quality controls, are essential to support the industry and enhance its competitiveness.
  • Future Outlook: The textile sector’s resilience and adaptability will be key in overcoming these challenges and capitalizing on potential opportunities in the global market.

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

Genetics of Silk Moth Domestication

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: Read the attached story

Mains level: NA

silk

Central Idea

  • Silk, often hailed as the queen of fibers, boasts a rich and diverse history, with roots stretching back over 5,000 years to ancient China.
  • Its story encompasses the transition from the wild silk moth (Bombyx mandarina) to the domesticated silk moth (Bombyx mori), offering a fascinating glimpse into human ingenuity and nature’s adaptability.

Silk Moth Domestication

  • Ancient Beginnings: Humans began domesticating silk moths from the wild Bombyx mandarina in China, marking the dawn of sericulture.
  • Global Reach: The domesticated Bombyx mori moth, significantly larger than its wild ancestor, now thrives worldwide, including in India.
  • Silk Powerhouse: India’s prowess in silk production makes it the second-largest raw silk producer globally, after China.

Silkworms and Mulberry Leaves

  • Exclusive Diet: Caterpillars, known as silkworms, feed solely on the leaves of mulberry plants (genus Morus).
  • Cocoon Construction: The domesticated silk moth extrudes silk fibers of remarkable length, up to 900 meters, to construct larger cocoons. These caterpillars have lost the ability to fly and their pigmentation, adapting to human care.

Diversity in Silk

  • Wild Silk Varieties: “Wild” silks, including muga, tasar, and eri, are derived from various moth species such as Antheraea assama, Antheraea mylitta, and Samia cynthia ricini.
  • Contrasting Characteristics: Non-mulberry silks differ significantly from mulberry silks, featuring shorter, coarser, and harder threads.

The Enigmatic Cocoon Colors

  • Natural Variations: Domesticated silk moth cocoons come in a stunning array of colors, including yellow-red, gold, flesh, pink, pale green, deep green, and white.
  • Human Influence: Selective breeding for differently colored cocoons aimed to create colored silks, but these pigments are water-soluble, eventually fading. Acid dyes are used to achieve colored silks in the market.
  • Origins of Pigments: Pigments in cocoons are derived from carotenoids and flavonoids produced by mulberry leaves. Silkworms ingest these chemicals, which are then bound to silk proteins and spun into a single fiber.

Mutant Strains and Genetic Insights

  • Valuable Resource: Mutant strains of silk moths have emerged due to mutations in genes governing pigment uptake, transport, and modification.
  • Diversity from Domestication: Silk domestication’s molecular basis has been primarily explored in China and Japan, with notable contributions from Indian scientists.

Decoding Cocoon Colors: A Model Emerges

  • Genetic Factors: Researchers at Southwest University in Chongqing, China, proposed a model explaining how different mutations create diverse cocoon colors.
  • Key Genes: Genes like Y, C, F, Rc, and Pk play roles in pigment transportation and absorption, leading to variations in cocoon colors.
  • Green Cocoon Mystery: Mutations in the Y gene result in green cocoons when carotenoids are not absorbed, but flavonoids are. The intensity of green depends on other genes’ mutations, affecting flavonoid uptake.
  • Flavonoid Cluster: A cluster of closely related genes influences flavonoid uptake in cocoons.

Gene Manipulation and Domestication

  • Hybrid Offspring: Researchers have created hybrid moths by interbreeding domesticated and ancestral silk moths.
  • Apontic-like Gene: Mutations in the apontic-like gene revealed differences in melanin production between domesticated and wild silk moths.
  • Regulatory Sequences: Variations in gene regulation sequences dictate when and where genes are activated or deactivated.

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: GOTS

Mains level: Not Much

textile cotton

Central Idea

  • Collaboration between the European Space Agency (ESA), Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), and Marple (an AI company) aims to track cotton certification in India.
  • Utilizing satellite images and artificial intelligence, the project focuses on identifying and classifying cotton fields in India.

What is GOTS?

  • The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a globally recognized standard for the processing and manufacturing of organic textiles.
  • It is a leading certification for organic fibers, including cotton, throughout the entire supply chain, from harvesting of raw materials to labeling of the final product.
  • GOTS ensures that organic textiles meet strict environmental and social criteria, providing credible assurance to consumers.

Key aspects of GOTS include:

  1. Organic Fiber Criteria: GOTS requires that at least 95% of the fibers in a textile product must be certified organic. It prohibits the use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs) and restricts the use of certain synthetic chemicals.
  2. Environmental Criteria: GOTS sets strict environmental criteria for processing and manufacturing organic textiles. It includes guidelines for wastewater treatment, chemical inputs, and energy usage, promoting sustainability and minimizing the environmental impact.
  3. Social Criteria: GOTS also encompasses social criteria, ensuring fair and safe working conditions for employees throughout the supply chain. It includes provisions for workers’ rights, prohibition of forced labor, and compliance with International Labor Organization (ILO) standards.
  4. Supply Chain Traceability: GOTS requires full traceability of the supply chain, from the source of the organic fibres to the final product. This ensures transparency and integrity throughout the production process.
  5. Labelling and Certification: GOTS-certified products are labelled accordingly, allowing consumers to identify and choose organic textiles with confidence. Certification is carried out by independent third-party organizations that assess compliance with GOTS standards.

What is the new program about?

  • ESA’s programme will train AI models to analyze ESA satellite data and identify cotton fields in India.
  • The project will help GOTS generate accurate estimates of organic cotton yields and incorporate standardized yield metrics.
  • The initiative aims to identify cotton fields meeting predetermined standards and support a seamless transition to organic cultivation.
  • Traditional and ecologically friendly farming practices will be encouraged.

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

Issues with new Quality Control Orders for fibres

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: QCO

Mains level: Not Much

quality

Central idea

  • Quality Control Orders (QCO) have been issued for fibres like cotton, polyester, and viscose to control the import of sub-quality and cheaper items and to ensure that customers get quality products.
  • The QCOs are made mandatory for some and yet to be finalized for others.

What is the move?

  • The Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) will issue certificate to manufacturers of viscose staple fibre (VSF) who comply with its standards (IS17266: 2019).
  • The hallmark is made mandatory.

Why are fibres covered under QCOs?

  • The Indian textile and clothing industry consumes both indigenous and imported fibres and filaments.
  • The imports are for different reasons, such as cost competitiveness, non-availability in the domestic market, or to meet a specified demand of the overseas buyer.
  • The main aim of the QCO is to control the import of sub-quality and cheaper items and to ensure that customers get quality products.

Reasons behind

  • India’s move to introduce a draft of Quality Control Orders (QCO) aims to curb a Chinese import surge and boost exports to western markets.

What challenges does the new mandate bring?

  • Supply chain disruption: India imports annually 50,000 – 60,000 tonnes of viscose fibre and its variants such as Modal and Tencel LF from nearly 20 countries. In the case of polyester, almost 90,000 tonnes of polyester fibre and 1.25 lakh tonnes of POY (Polyester Partially Oriented Yarn) are imported annually.
  • Unease of doing business: Getting the certificate from the BIS involves a cost and hence not all are interested in getting the certificate.
  • Value chain disruption: The Indian textile manufacturers who are dependent on these suppliers for the raw material will have to either look at other suppliers or lose orders.
  • Material shortage: Some varieties of fibres have special functional properties and separate HS (Harmonised Commodity Description and Coding System) code when imported. The textile industry imports just small quantities of such fibres, and restricting their availability will deny Indian consumers of niche products.
  • Prospected price rise: Several textile units use lower-grade fibres that are generated from rejects and wastes and these are not covered under the QCO.

Textile industry’s expectation

  • The industry is of the view that the import of speciality fibres that are used as blends with other fibres should be made available without restriction.
  • Any overseas applicant for the BIS certificate should get it without delay after inspection.

Way forward

  • Polyester-spun yarn mills in the MSME sector need capital support to set up labs to test products.
  • The QCO should be implemented only after the ambiguities are cleared and the anomalies set right, says the industry.

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

Cotton textiles: India was/is/ and will be a leader in sustainable production

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: NA

Mains level: Indian handloom, Impact of colonial policies and the future of energy efficient cotton production

cotton

Context

  • When we look back at Indian handlooms, what is certain is that the craft world has changed, not in the slow-paced gradual way of changes in the past, but much faster than before. India can be a world leader in the sustainable production of cotton textiles.

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cotton

Background: Indian handlooms

  • Supplier from the ancient times: The weavers of India have supplied the markets of the world with cotton cloth since at least the first century of the Common Era.
  • Fine varieties of cotton were the source of wealth: In pre-industrial times, the many varieties of Indian cotton cloth bafta, mulmul, mashru, jamdani, moree, percale, nainsukh, chintz, etc were the source of India’s fabled wealth.
  • Spun by hand: Until colonial times, the yarn for handloom weaving in India had been spun by hand.
  • Invention of spinning machines: With the invention of spinning machinery in Britain and the import of machine-spun cotton yarn, this occupation vanished.

cotton

Impact of colonial policies on Indian handlooms

  • Economic policies dictated by British: Since India was a British colony, the British dictated its economic policies.
  • Raw material exported while machine made fabric imported: Machine-woven cotton fabrics began to be imported, while raw cotton was shipped out to supply British industry.
  • Variety of cotton from India was not suitable for machinery, so they forced uniformity: Though Indian varieties of cotton produced the finest fabrics the world has yet seen, the famous Dhaka muslins, they were unsuited to the newly invented textile machinery, while American cotton varieties that have a longer, stronger staple, were more suited to machine processing. The machines needed a uniform kind of cotton, so the hundreds of varieties of Indian cotton which had been bred over centuries now had to become uniform. Diversity, until then valued, became a handicap.
  • By 1947 uniform production established and variety lost: By 1947, mass production was well established, and India’s own spinning and weaving mills took over the role of Lancashire. American cotton varieties and their hybrids gradually replaced native ones, so now, native varieties grow only in a few pockets

What did this mean for Indian cotton farmers?

  • New practices changed the nature of production from sustainable to commercial: Cotton in India is grown largely by small farmers, and the new practices have changed the nature of farm practices from sustainable, family-based agriculture to intensive commercial farming with severe and tragic consequences.
  • Seeds from companies were expensive: Seeds come from large multinationals, rather than the farmer’s own stock, and are expensive.
  • Desi varieties of seeds were rainfed lost rapidly: While the desi varieties were rain-fed, the American varieties need irrigation, which increases humidity. Humidity encourages pests and fungi.
  • Cost of cultivation increased with use of fertilizers: A cocktail of chemicals fertiliser, pesticide and fungicide is used which adds to the cost of cultivation, but does not guarantee a good harvest.
  • Debt increased farmers misery: The farmer runs up huge debts hoping for a good crop, but India’s weather is variable, groundwater is fast depleting. If the crop fails, the risks are entirely the farmer’s. The distress of the cotton farmer has even led to suicides. The introduction of genetically-modified seeds has led to more severe problems.

Relationship between energy shift and the cotton production

  • Renewable energy in 21st century: Just as energy from fossil fuels ushered in the era of mass production in the 19th century, it will be clean, renewable energy that will take the small-scale environmental Indian industries to the top of the heap in the 21st century.
  • Emphasis for low energy manufacturing: As fossil fuels deplete, earlier notions of efficiency will change, and low-energy manufacturing processes will gain value.
  • Handwoven fabrics will gain importance again: At the same time, markets are becoming saturated with look-alike products from factory-style mass production, and there are more customers for the individualised products dispersed production can offer. Small-batch handwoven fabrics will become desirable in the changing markets.

cotton

Interesting: Malkha a sustainable fabric

  • Malkha is pure cotton cloth made directly from raw cotton in the village close to cotton fields and combines traditional Indian principles of cloth making with modern small-scale technology.
  • Malkha is energy efficient, avoids baling and unbaling of cotton by heavy machinery and unnecessary transport.
  • It provides an alternative to the mass production of cotton yarn.
  • Malkha has also added natural dyeing of yarn to make its fabrics even more sustainable.

Conclusion

  • The world is looking for green industries. Over the next 25 years, as independent India turns 100, handloom weaving located close to cotton fields can make it a world leader in sustainable production.

Mains question

Q. The weavers of India have supplied the markets of the world with cotton cloth since at least the first century of the Common Era. In this context Discuss the impact of British policies on Indian handloom.

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

Boosting India’s Cotton Production

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: Cotton crop,Voluntary Sustainable Standards (VSS)

Mains level: Paper 3- Textile industry,Voluntary Sustainable Standards (VSS)

IndiaContext

  • Cotton, one of the most important crops, has a strategic role in India’s international agriculture play. India is the world’s third-largest exporter of cotton and the second-largest exporter of textiles, therefore, also contributing significantly to the country’s economy.

All you need to know about the Cotton crop

  • Rainfall and Temperature: Sensitive to timing of rainfall and rainfall during harvest might lead to crop failure. Temperature required is around 20-30 degree c., while rainfall is about 75-100cm.
  • Soil: Black soil ideally suited for cotton cultivation as it is rich in lime.cotton is vulnerable to pest attack.
  • Humidity: Cotton cultivation requires more than 200 frost free days. Humidity during harvest is harmful.
  • Oilcake: The cotton seeds are crushed for oil and the oilcake is an important animal fodder and also used as farm manure.

India

What is the Present status of cotton in India?

  • India holds a 4% share of the U.S.$840 billion global textile and apparel market
  • India has been successful in developing backward links, with the aid of the Technical Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS), in the cotton and technical textiles industry.
  • However, India is yet to move into man-made fibres as factories still operate in a seasonal fashion.
  • Areas of cotton cultivation are Gujrat, Maharashtra, Telangana, Punjab, etc.

Do you know?

The latest archaeological discovery in Mehrgarh puts the dating of early cotton cultivation and the use of cotton to 5000 BCE. The Indus Valley civilization started cultivating cotton by 3000 BCE. Cotton was mentioned in Hindu hymns in 1500 BCE.

IndiaWhat are the voluntary sustainable standards (VSS) in cotton?

  • Voluntary Sustainability Standards (VSS):  Voluntary Sustainability Standards (VSS), which encapsulate certification schemes, labelling programmes, and private standards. The major VSS that are dominant in the sustainable cotton value chain today include Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Organic Cotton, Fair trade Cotton, and Cotton Made in Africa.
  • To achieve sustainable Goal: The global textile supply chain is undergoing a paradigm shift; it is pursuing environmental and social upgradation to meet the sustainability requirements imposed by global textile and home furnishing retailers, so as to mitigate the adverse impacts of climate change on cotton farmers and cotton cultivation.

What are the benefits of VSS for India?

  • Enhance position in global cotton supply: Adapting to VSS is clearly beneficial for India. On the one hand, it will help it remain globally competitive in the cotton supply chain and strengthen its position in the export market, while on the other, it will help meet India’s SDG commitments.
  • Takes India a step closer towards sustainable farming: India has made considerable progress in its transition towards a more sustainable cotton farming ecosystem. The total cotton area under VSS has reached 1.5 million hectares, contributing to 24 percent of the global VSS cotton area.
  • Increases organic production of cotton: With approximately 0.2 million hectares of area for production, it is the largest producer of organic cotton, accounting for 50 percent of global organic cotton production, and the second-largest producer of ‘Better Cotton’, accounting for 16.5 percent of total Better Cotton production covering an area of 1.5 million hectares.
  • Higher yeild: According to the BCI’s 2020 Impact Report for India, Better Cotton farmers have 9 percent higher yields and 18 percent higher profit than conventional farmers.
  • Eco friendly production:The Thinkstep report 2018 on the Life Cycle Assessment of VSS Cotton conducted in Madhya Pradesh revealed a reduction of 50 percent in climate change impact, 59 percent in blue water consumption, 84 percent in ecotoxicity, and 100 percent eutrophication in organic over conventional cotton.
  • To achieve SDG Targets: The VSS cotton growth story in India has already demonstrated its contribution towards the achievement of SDG targets for Zero Hunger (Goal 2), Clean Water and Sanitation (Goal 6), Responsible Consumption and Production (Goal 12), Life on Land (Goal 15), and Climate Action (Goal 16).
  • NITI Aayog’s Assessment: VSS cotton delivers real, measurable outcomes according to priority indicators as outlined by NITI Aayog which maps India’s SDG goals. These indicators include changes in the extent of water bodies, improving groundwater withdrawal against availability, and rationalising nitrogen fertiliser.

IndiaConclusion

  • India must scale up the VSS while aligning it with its SDG commitments since VSS in cotton ensures a better production system, sourcing methods, and consumption patterns while also influencing the lives of hundreds of millions.

Mains Question

Q. What are the Voluntary Sustainable Standards (VSS)? Cotton production can be boosted in India using VSS method. Elaborate.

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

UNESCO Lists 50 iconic Indian Textiles

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: Textiles mentioned in the newscard

Mains level: Not Much

The UNESCO has released a list of 50 exclusive and iconic heritage textile crafts of the country.

About the Report

  • The report is titled- Handmade for the 21st Century: Safeguarding Traditional Indian Textile.
  • It lists the histories and legends behind the textiles, describes the complicated and secret processes behind their making, mentions the causes for their dwindling popularity, and provides strategies for their preservation.
  • The publication, which aims to bridge this gap, brings together years of research on the 50 selected textiles.

Key heritage textiles mentioned in the list

  • Toda embroidery and Sungadi from Tamil Nadu
  • Himroo from Hyderabad
  • Bandha tie and dye from Sambalpur in Odisha
  • Khes from Panipat, Haryana
  • Chamba rumals from Himachal Pradesh
  • Thigma or wool tie and dye from Ladakh
  • Awadh Jamdani from Varanasi, UP
  • Ilkal and Lambadi or Banjara embroidery from Karnataka
  • Sikalnayakanpet Kalamkari from Thanjavur, TN
  • Kunbi weaves from Goa
  • Mashru weaves and Patola from Gujarat
  • Himroo from Maharashtra and
  • Garad-Koirial from West Bengal

Back2Basics: UN Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization

  • The UNESCO is a specialised agency of the UN aimed at promoting world peace and security through international cooperation in education, arts, sciences and culture.
  • It has 193 member states and 12 associate members, as well as partners in the non-governmental, intergovernmental and private sector.
  • UNESCO was founded in 1945 as the successor to the League of Nations’s International Committee on Intellectual Cooperation.
  • It pursues this objective through five major program areas: education, natural sciences, social/human sciences, culture and communication/information.

 

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

Recent woes of the jute industry in West Bengal

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: Jute cultivation in India

Mains level: Read the attached story

Member of Parliament (MP) from Barrackpore constituency in West Bengal met the Union Textile about issues concerning jute farmers, workers and the overall jute industry.

What is the news?

  • The Barrackpore MP had earlier written to West Bengal CM, seeking her intervention into the “arbitrary decision” of capping the price for procuring raw jute from the mills.
  • He was referring to the Office of the Jute Commissioner (JCO)’s September 30 notification mandating that no entity would be allowed to purchase or sell raw jute at a price exceeding ₹6,500 per quintal.

What is Jute?

  • Jute is the only crop where earnings begin to trickle in way before the final harvest.
  • The seeds are planted between April and May and harvested between July and August.
  • The leaves can be sold in vegetable markets for nearly two months of the four-month jute crop cycle.
  • The tall, hardy grass shoots up to 2.5 metres and each part of it has several uses.
  • The outer layer of the stem produces the fibre that goes into making jute products.
  • But the leaves can be cooked, the inner woody stems can be used to manufacture paper and the roots, which are left in the ground after harvest, improve the yield of subsequent crops.
  • A ‘Golden Fibre Revolution’ has long been called for by various committees, but the jute industry is in dire need of basic reforms.

Jute production in India

  • India is the world’s biggest producer of jute , followed by Bangladesh.
  • Jute is primarily grown in West Bengal, Odisha, Assam, Meghalaya, Tripura and Andhra Pradesh.
  • The jute industry in India is 150 years old.
  • There are about 70 jute mills in the country, of which about 60 are in West Bengal along both the banks of river Hooghly.
  • Jute production is a labour-intensive industry. It employs about two lakh workers in the West Bengal alone and 4 lakh workers across the country.

Significance of Jute

  • Compared to rice, jute requires very little water and fertiliser.
  • It is largely pest-resistant, and its rapid growth spurt ensures that weeds don’t stand a chance.
  • Jute is the second most abundant natural fibre in the world.
  • It has high tensile strength, acoustic and thermal insulation, breathability, low extensibility, ease of blending with both synthetic and natural fibres, and antistatic properties.
  • Jute can be used: for insulation (replacing glass wool), geotextiles, activated carbon powder, wall coverings, flooring, garments, rugs, ropes, gunny bags, handicrafts, curtains, carpet backings, paper, sandals, carry bags, and furniture.

Why in news now?

  • Mills are now procuring raw jute at prices higher than what they are selling them at after processing.
  • The government has a fixed Minimum Support Price (MSP) for raw jute procurement from farmers, which is ₹4,750 per quintal for the 2022-23 season.
  • However, as the executive stated, this reached his mill at ₹7,200 per quintal, that is, ₹700 more than the ₹6,500 per quintal cap for the final product.
  • Though the Union government has come up with several schemes to prevent de-hoarding, the executive believes the mechanism requires a certain “systematic regulation”.

What happened to supply?

  • What made the situation particularly worrisome recently was the occurrence of Cyclone Amphan in May 2020 and the subsequent rains in major jute producing States.
  • These events led to lower acreage, which in turn led to lower production and yield compared to previous years.
  • Additionally, as the Commission for Agricultural Costs and Prices (CACP) stated in its report, this led to production of a lower quality of jute fibre in 2020-21 as water-logging in large fields resulted in farmers harvesting the crop prematurely.
  • Acreage issues were accompanied by hoarding at all levels – right from the farmers to the traders.

Where does India stand in comparison to Bangladesh?

  • As per the Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO), India is the largest producer of jute followed by Bangladesh and China.
  • However, in terms of acreage and trade, Bangladesh takes the lead accounting for three-fourth of the global jute exports in comparison to India’s 7%.
  • This can be attributed to the fact that India lags behind Bangladesh in producing superior quality jute fibre due to infrastructural constraints and varieties suitable for the country’s agro-climate.
  • Further, as the CACP report stated, Bangladesh provides cash subsidies for varied semi-finished and finished jute products.
  • Hence, the competitiveness emerges as a challenge for India to explore export options in order to compensate for the domestic scenario.

What is at stake?

  • The jute sector provides direct employment to 3.70 lakh workers in the country.
  • It supports the livelihood of around 40 lakh farm families, closure of the mills is a direct blow to workers and indirectly, to the farmers whose production is used in the mills.
  • West Bengal, Bihar and Assam account for almost 99% of India’s total production.

 

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

Textile Industry in India

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: Fourth industrial revolution

Mains level: Paper 3- Textile industry in South Asia and challenges ahead

Context

South Asia became a major player in the global textiles and clothing market with the onset of the third wave of global production.

Textile industry in Bangladesh

  • Bangladesh overtook India in exports in the past decade as Indian labour costs resulted in products becoming 20% more expensive.
  • Bangladesh joined the league in the 1980s, owing to the outbreak of the civil war in Sri Lanka.
  • Lower production costs and free trade agreements with western buyers are what favour Bangladesh, which falls third in the line as a global exporter.
  • Bangladesh has been ahead of time in adopting technology.
  • Bangladesh also concentrates on cotton products, specialising in the low-value and mid-market price segment.

Where does India stand?

  • The progress of India and Pakistan in readymade garments is recent when compared to their established presence in textiles.
  • India holds a 4% share of the U.S.$840 billion global textile and apparel market, and is in fifth position.
  • India has been successful in developing backward links, with the aid of the Technical Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS), in the cotton and technical textiles industry.
  • However, India is yet to move into man-made fibres as factories still operate in a seasonal fashion.

Challenges ahead

1] Fourth Industrial revolution and robotic automation

  • The Fourth Industrial Revolution (4IR) has been shifting focus from production machinery to integrating technology in the entire production life cycle.
  • The production cycle incorporates all digital information and automation including robotics, artificial intelligence (AI), virtual reality, 3D printing, etc.
  • Robotic automation exemplifies production efficiency, especially in areas such as cutting and colour accuracy.
  • The Asian Development Bank anticipates the challenges of job losses and disruption, inequality and political instability, concentration of market power by global giants and more vulnerability to cyberattacks.
  •  With a 7% unemployment rate, India faces the challenge of job creation in the wake of increased automation.
  • The World Bank expects this trend to accelerate in the post-COVID-19 market.
  • The 4IR may result in unemployment or poor employment generation, primarily affecting a low skill workforce.

2] Sustainability challenge

  • Sustainability is also an important consideration for foreign buyers.
  • Bangladesh’s readymade garments initiated ‘green manufacturing’ practices to help conserve energy, water, and resources.
  • Textile and apparel effluents account for 17%-20% of all water pollution.
  •  The Indian government is committed to promoting sustainability through project sustainable resolution.

3] Labour issues

  • Access to affordable labour continues to be an advantage for south Asia.
  •  In addition, a country such as India with a very high number of scientists and engineers could lead, as is evident in the areas of drones, AI and blockchain.
  • India’s potential lies in its resources, infrastructure, technology, demographic dividend and policy framework.
  • The creation of a Centre for the Fourth Industrial Revolution is indicative of India’s intent.

Way forward

  • Digitalisation and automation in areas such as design, prototyping, and production are key in order to stay abreast, and in controlling production quality and timely delivery.
  • Sustainable practices such as regenerative organic farming (that focuses on soil health, animal welfare, and social fairness), sustainable manufacturing energy (renewable sources of energy are used) and circularity are being adopted.
  • Tax exemptions or reductions in imported technology, accessibility to financial incentives, maintaining political stability and establishing good trade relations are some of the fundamental forms of support the industry needs from governments.
  • The U.S. trade war on China owing to human rights violations along with its economic bottlenecks, opens doors for India and Pakistan as they have strong production bases.
  • Similar to China, India has a big supply — from raw material to garments.
  • Bangladesh has also risen as a top exporter in a cost competitive global market.
  • India’s proposed investments of US$1.4 billion and the establishment of all-in-one textile parks are expected to increase employment and ease of trade.
  • India extended tax rebates in apparel export till 2024, with the twin goals of competitiveness and policy stability.
  • Labour law reforms, additional incentives, income tax relaxations, duty reductions for man-made fibre, etc. are other notable moves.
  •  Newer approaches in the areas of compliance, transparency, occupational safety, sustainable production, etc. are inevitable changes in store for South Asia to sustain and grow business.
  • Finally, there is a need for governments’ proactive support in infrastructure, capital, liquidity and incentivisation.

Conclusion

Ensuring government support for financial incentives, upgrading technologies and reskilling labour are key challenges.

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

[pib] Amended Technology Up-gradation Fund Scheme

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: ATUFS

Mains level: Textile sector of India

Union Minister of Textiles has reviewed the Amended Technology Up-gradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS) to ease of doing business, bolstering exports & fuelling employment.

What is ATUFS?

  • The Ministry of Textiles had introduced Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) in 1999.
  • It is a credit linked subsidy scheme intended for modernization and technology up-gradation of the Indian textile industry.
  • It aims at promoting ease of doing business, generating employment and promoting exports. Since then, the scheme has been implemented in different versions.
  • The ongoing ATUFS has been approved in 2016 and implemented through web based iTUFS platform.
  • Capital Investment Subsidy is provided to benchmarked machinery installed by the industry after physical verification.

 

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

Khadi industry in India

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: Khadi Mark Regulation

Mains level: Paper 3- Issues facing khadi promotion in India

Context

The Prime Minister has repeatedly stressed his support for khadi, cottage industries, crafts and handlooms.

About Khadi

  • Genuine khadi or khaddar is woven from short-stapled organically grown cotton.
  • The beauty is in its uneven texture and colours, as cotton bolls are not all pure white in every region.
  • Fabrics being made today in the name of khadi are modified spin-offs that look more like handloom fabric, with mill-produced yarn, screen printed and often mixed with mill-made polyester.

Issues

  • Restriction of scope: According to the Khadi Mark Regulations (KMR) of 2013, no textile can be sold or otherwise traded by any person or institution as khadi or a khadi product in any form if the khadi mark tag issued by KVIC is missing.
  • This restricts the scope of trade to a few approved entities, thereby creating recognisable barriers to enter the market for khadi.
  • Restrictive certification process: The certification process described in Chapter V (Clause 20 (a)) of the KMR requires accredited agencies to perform an on-site verification of hand-spinning and hand-weaving processes.”
  • Yarn must be procured only from KVIC depots or the Cotton Corporation of India, descriptions of mechanisation and electrification are ambiguous.
  • There are so many restrictions that most producers have no incentive and many small bodies are unable to pay Rs 50,000 for certification.
  • Multiple authorities: Hand-spinning and weaving are also part of craft skills. Only the hand-spun part is additional in khadi.
  • But today KVIC, on its website and in its catalogue, has visibly non-hand-spun silk-printed saris, polyester fabrics and others that seem clearly machine-printed.
  • The KVIC online catalogue has products like industrially-made suitcases, bags and wallets which are under MSME, but with a “khadi” label.
  • This points to the need for bringing khadi and all handicrafts together in one ministry.

Conclusion

Gandhi did not intend to create a police state for the khadi sector, full of acts and rules that put production in a straitjacket. Perhaps, some courageous producers can try circumventing all this by using the word “khaddar” on their labels instead.

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

Catching up on PLI scheme for textile sector

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: MMF vs natural fibre

Mains level: Paper 3- PLI for textile sector

Context

The Cabinet approved the Production-Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme for the textile sector that is expressly targeted at the man-made fibre (MMF) and technical textiles segments.

Why India needs to focus on Man-made fibre (MMF) in textile trade

  • Preference for MMF:  The MMF surpassed cotton as the fibre of choice in the 1990s.
  • The MMFs share in worldwide textile consumption is about 75%.
  • Dominance of natural fibre in India’s export: India’s textile and clothing exports have continued to remain dominated by cotton and other natural fibre-based products.
  • The MMF have contributed less than 30% of the country’s $35.6 billion in overall sectoral exports in 2017-18.
  • While policy makers have been cognisant of the need to bolster support for the MMF segment.

About the scheme

  • The PLI scheme has a budgeted outlay of ₹10,683 crore.
  • Incentive at two levels: The incentives have been categorised into two investment levels.
  • First level: Firms investing at least ₹300 crore into plant and machinery over two years would need to hit a minimum turnover of ₹600 crore before becoming eligible to receive the incentive over a five-year period.
  • Second level: At a second level an investment of ₹100 crore with a pre-set minimum turnover of ₹200 crore would enable qualification for the incentive.
  • Intermediate products included: The aim of the scheme is to specifically focus investment attention on 40 MMF apparel product lines, 14 MMF fabric lines and 10 segments or products of technical textiles.
  • The inclusion of intermediate products reflects the Government’s keenness to ensure the scheme ultimately delivers on the broader policy objectives.

Conclusion

Operational success of the scheme is likely to hinge on how new entrepreneurs and existing companies weigh the risk-reward equation, especially at a time when the pandemic-spurred uncertainty has already made private businesses leery of making fresh capital expenditure.

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

PLI Scheme for Textiles

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: PLI scheme for various sectors

Mains level: Textile sector of India

The Union Government has approved Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme for Textiles.  This move is a part of the overall announcement of PLI Schemes for 13 sectors made earlier during the Union Budget 2021-22.

What is PLI Scheme?

  • As the name suggests, the scheme provides incentives to companies for enhancing their domestic manufacturing apart from focusing on reducing import bills and improving the cost competitiveness of local goods.
  • PLI scheme offers incentives on incremental sales for products manufactured in India.
  • The scheme for respective sectors has to be implemented by the concerned ministries and departments.

Criteria laid for the scheme

  • Eligibility criteria for businesses under the PLI scheme vary based on the sector approved under the scheme.
  • For instance, the eligibility for telecom units is subject to the achievement of a minimum threshold of cumulative incremental investment and incremental sales of manufactured goods.
  • The minimum investment threshold for MSME is Rs 10 crore and Rs 100 crores for others.
  • Under food processing, SMEs and others must hold over 50 per cent of the stock of their subsidiaries, if any.
  • On the other hand, for businesses under pharmaceuticals, the project has to be a greenfield project while the net worth of the company should not be less than 30 per cent of the total committed investment.

What are the incentives involved?

  • An incentive of 4-6 per cent was offered last year on mobile and electronic components manufacturers such as resistors, transistors, diodes, etc.
  • Similarly, 10 percent incentives were offered for six years (FY22-27) of the scheme for the food processing industry.
  • For white goods too, the incentive of 4-6 per cent on incremental sales of goods manufactured in India for a period of five years was offered to companies engaged in the manufacturing of air conditioners and LED lights.

What is in the box for Textiles?

  • The PLI scheme for textiles aims to promote the production of high value Man-Made Fibre (MMF) fabrics, garments and technical textiles.
  • Any person or company willing to invest a minimum of Rs 300 crore in plant, machinery, equipment and civil works (excluding land and administrative building cost) to produce products of MMF fabrics, garments and products of technical textiles will be eligible.
  • Investors willing to spend a minimum of Rs 100 crore under the same conditions shall be eligible.

Benefits offered

  • PLI scheme for Textiles will promote production of high value MMF Fabric, Garments and Technical Textiles in country.
  • The incentive structure has been so formulated that the industry will be encouraged to invest in fresh capacities in these segments.
  • This will give a major push to the growing high-value MMF segment which will complement the efforts of the cotton and other natural fiber-based textiles industry.
  • This will help to generate new opportunities for employment and trade, resultantly helping India regain its historical dominant status in global textiles trade.

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Back2Basics: India’s textile sector

  • The textile industry in India traditionally, after agriculture, is the only industry that has generated huge employment for both skilled and unskilled labour.
  • The domestic textiles and apparel industry contributes 5% to India’s GDP, 7% of industry output in value terms, and 12% of the country’s export earnings.
  • The textile industry continues to be the second-largest employment generating sector in India. It offers direct employment to over 35 million in the country.
  • India is first in global jute production and shares 63% of the global textile and garment market. India is second in global textile manufacturing and also second in silk and cotton production.
  • 100% FDI is allowed via automatic route in textile sector.

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

[pib] Hathkargha Samvardhan Sahayata (HSS) Yojana

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: HSS scheme

Mains level: Textile sector of India

The Ministry of Textiles introduced the technology up-gradation scheme called Hathkargha Samvardhan Sahayata (HSS) Yojana.

Much recently, in the budget, the Mega Investment Textiles Parks (MITRA) Scheme was launched.

HSS Yojana

  • This scheme is introduced as an up-gradation scheme under National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP) and Comprehensive Handloom Cluster Development Scheme (CHCDS) in 2015-16.
  • It aims to provide upgraded looms/accessories to handloom weavers to improve the quality of the fabric and enhance productivity.
  • Under the scheme, the Union Govt bears 90% of the cost of looms/accessories.
  • It is designed for all the weavers, including SC/ST/OBC and women.
  • The performance of this scheme will be evaluated by independent third-party agencies.

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

[pib] Mega Investment Textiles Parks (MITRA) Scheme

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: MITRA scheme

Mains level: Textile sector of India

The Finance Minister has proposed setting up of a scheme of Mega Investment Textiles Parks (MITRA) Scheme in her budget speech.

Do not get confused over Sahakar Mitra Scheme and this one.

MITRA Scheme

  • MITRA aims to enable the textile industry to become globally competitive, attract large investments, and boost employment generation and exports.
  • It will create world-class infrastructure with plug and play facilities to enable create global champions in exports.
  • It will be launched in addition to the Production Linked Incentive Scheme (PLI).
  • It will give our domestic manufacturers a level-playing field in the international textiles market & pave the way for India to become a global champion of textiles exports across all segments”.

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

Rebate of State Levies (ROSL) Scheme

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: Rebate of State Levies (ROSL) Scheme

Mains level: Textile sector of India and its global competitiveness

The Department of Revenue has allowed the release of pending Rebate of State Levies (RoSL) worth Rs 464.13 crore to garment exporters.

We may expect a prelim question like- “The Rebate of State Levies (ROSL) Scheme is related to which of the following industrial sector? ” with some unrelatedly looking options.

Rebate of State Levies (ROSL) Scheme

  • Last year, the Union Cabinet has approved the Scheme to Rebate State and Central Embedded Taxes to Support the Textile Sector.
  • The scheme aimed to reimburse the State levies that garment and made-up exports incurred.
  • But it was discontinued on and replaced with the Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies scheme.

Why was such a scheme needed?

  • ROSL plays a vital role for the exporters by providing zero-rated taxation on apparel and made-up products.
  • This scheme enabled the exporters to increase traffic, enhance competitiveness among the global market, and compete against countries such as Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Cambodia and Vietnam, who enjoy zero taxation.
  • This also benefits the traders who export to the European Union (EU), India’s largest export market for the apparel sector, facing a tariff variation of 9.6 per cent.

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

National Technical Textiles Mission

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: Technical Textiles, About the Mission

Mains level: Textile sector of India and its global competitiveness

The Cabinet Committee on Economic Affairs has given its approval to set up a National Technical Textiles Mission with a view to position the country as a global leader in Technical Textiles.

What are Technical Textiles?

  • Technical textile is a textile product manufactured for non-aesthetic purposes, where the function is primary criterion.
  • They are functional fabrics that have applications across various industries including automobiles, civil engineering and construction, agriculture, healthcare, industrial safety, personal protection etc.
  • Technical Textiles is a high technology sunrise sector which is steadily gaining ground in. India.

National Technical Textiles Mission

  • The Mission would have a four year implementation period from FY 2020-21 to 2023-24.
  • It will move into sunset phase after four years period.
  • A Mission Directorate in the Min. of Textiles headed by an eminent expert in the related field will be made operational.
  • The Directorate will not have any permanent employment and there will be no creation of building infrastructure for the Mission purpose.

Components of the mission

Component-I:  Promoting both (i) fundamental research at fibre level and (ii) application-based research in geo-textiles, agro-textiles, medical textiles, mobile textiles and sports textiles and development of bio­degradable technical textiles.

Component-II: Promotion and Market Development.

Component-III: Export promotion of technical textiles and ensuring 10% average growth in exports per year upto 2023-24. An Export Promotion Council for Technical Textiles will be set up for this purpose.

Component-IV: Promoting technical education at higher engineering and technology levels related to technical textiles.

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

Purified Terephthalic Acid (PTA)

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: PTA and its uses

Mains level: Not Much

  • During her Budget speech, FM Mrs. Sitharaman said that the government was abolishing in “public interest” an anti-dumping duty that was levied on imports of a chemical called PTA.
  • Domestic manufacturers of polyester have called the move a huge relief for the industry, claiming they had been fighting to remove the duty for four-and-a-half years.

What is PTA?

  • Purified Terephthalic Acid (PTA) is a crucial raw material used to make various products, including polyester fabrics.
  • PTA makes up for around 70-80% of a polyester product and is, therefore, important to those involved in the manufacture of man-made fabrics or their components, according to industry executives.
  • This includes products like polyester staple fibre and spun yarn.
  • Our cushions and sofas may have polyester staple fibre fillings. Some sportswear, swimsuits, dresses, trousers, curtains, sofa covers, jackets, car seat covers and bed sheets have a certain proportion of polyester in them.

What led to the government decision?

  • There has been persistent demand that they should be allowed to source that particular product at an affordable rate, even if it means importing it.
  • She had said easy availability of this “critical input” at competitive prices was desirable to unlock “immense” potential in the textile sector, seen as a “significant” employment generator.
  • The duty had meant importers were paying an extra $27-$160 for every 1,000 kg of PTA that they wanted to import from countries like China, Taiwan, Malaysia, Indonesia, Iran, Korea and Thailand.
  • Removing the duty will allow PTA users to source from international markets and may make it as much as $30 per 1,000 kg cheaper than now, according to industry executives.

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Textile Sector – Cotton, Jute, Wool, Silk, Handloom, etc.

[pib] Patola Saree

Note4Students

From UPSC perspective, the following things are important :

Prelims level: Patola Saree

Mains level: Promoting Khadi and village industries

In a historic initiative taken by Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), a first Silk Processing Plant was inaugurated at Surendranagar in Gujarat.

It would help cut down the cost of production of silk yarn drastically and increase the sale and availability of raw material for Gujarati Patola Sarees.

Patola Sarees

  • Patola is a double ikat (dying technique) woven sari, usually made from silk made in Patan, Gujarat.
  • They are very expensive, once worn only by those belonging to royal and aristocratic families. These saris are popular among those who can afford the high prices.
  • Reason being the raw material silk yarn is purchased from Karnataka or West Bengal, where silk processing units are situated, thus increasing the cost of the fabric manifolds.
  • Patola-weaving is a closely guarded family tradition. There are three families in Patan that weave these highly prized double ikat saris.
  • It can take six months to one year to make one sari due to the long process of dying each strand separately before weaving them together.

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