GI(Geographical Indicator) Tags

Prada-Kolhapuri Cultural Misappropriation Debate

Why in the News?

The Prada incident, involving footwear resembling India’s GI-tagged Kolhapuri chappals, has reignited debates on cultural respect, equitable benefit sharing, and the need for stronger global enforcement of GI rights.

prada

About the Kolhapuri Chappal Controversy:

  • Cultural Origin: They originated in Kolhapur and nearby districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka, dating back to the 12th–13th century, once worn by royals.
  • Craftsmanship and Features: These chappals are handmade from vegetable-tanned leather, use no nails or synthetic parts, and feature a T-strap design in natural tones.
  • GI Tag Recognition: They received a GI tag in 2019, covering eight districts across the two states.
  • Allegations Against Prada: Italian luxury brand Prada was accused of unauthorised cultural appropriation for selling similar sandals without acknowledging the traditional origin.
  • Global Enforcement Gap: The controversy highlights the limited international protection for GI-tagged goods and the need for stronger legal safeguards abroad.

Earlier Cultural Misappropriation Cases:

  • Basmati Rice (1997): The US Patent and Trademark Office granted a patent to Ricetec Inc., claiming new “lines and grains” of basmati rice. After diplomatic and legal pressure, Ricetec was barred from using the term “Basmati.”
  • Turmeric (1995): A U.S. patent was granted for turmeric’s wound-healing properties, a use long documented in Ayurveda. CSIR successfully challenged and had the patent revoked.
  • Neem (2000): The European Patent Office revoked a patent granted to the USDA and W.R. Grace for neem-based antifungal formulations, citing that such usage existed in Indian traditional knowledge.

Back2Basics: Geographical Indication (GI) Tags

  • Purpose: A GI tag is a form of intellectual property that certifies a product’s origin from a specific place where its quality or reputation is uniquely linked to that location.
  • Significance: GI tags help preserve cultural heritage, promote rural livelihoods, and enable market access for indigenous communities.
  • Legal Framework in India: In India, GI registration is governed by the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999, in force since 2003, and managed by the DPIIT, Ministry of Commerce.
  • Ownership and Validity: A GI tag is collectively owned by local producers, valid for 10 years, and renewable indefinitely, unlike private trademarks.
  • Examples of GI Goods: India has 658 GI goods, including Darjeeling tea, Madhubani paintings, Pashmina shawls, Chanderi sarees, and Kancheepuram silk.
  • Jurisdiction of Protection: GI protection is territorial, meaning legal misuse can only be challenged within the registered country, unless separately protected abroad.
  • Global Legal Backing: GI rights are supported by international treaties like the Paris Convention (1883) and the TRIPS Agreement (1995).

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